Instructions to build the Shapeways „A.G. Price 16 wheeler“

About the prototype

The 16-Wheeler by A.G. Price was build and used in New Zealand for logging operations. The locomotive looks very rough build and looks a bit more than strange, but she was well-engineered and build by a well-known manufacturer for marine steam engines.

The engine was powered by a 2 cylinder steam engine mostly similar to a Class A Climax, but features 4 trucks with 4 wheels each. You’ll find more details about the prototype as well as some photos and drawings on this page –

http://www.trainweb….ives/price.html

http://www.trainweb.org/nzgearedlocomotives/images/price_16-wheeler.jpg

About the model

The model is designed to be printed in Frosted-Ultra-Detail (FUD) which needs some attention of the builder since it can break very easy. By following the steps below, you might not break any party. Otherwise, the most fragile parts, the trucks, are available as spare parts at Shapeways.

Two Kato 11-105 units are needed for the wheelsets, pickup and power mechanism. The finished model will feature 2 powered trucks, all-wheel-pickup and is designed to run on 23cm radius curves.

Links to Shapeways :

The A.G.Price loco kit
Spare trucks for the A.G.Price

Building instruction

But now back to the pre-production model and lets start to assemble the chassis.

1. Assemble the unpowered trucks. Lay one pickup metal piece into position and the second one just on top of the side frame. Insert the wheelsets until you’ve this constellation as shown in the photo below. now gentle slip the wheelsets together with the pickup metal piece into the final position. Attention, the FUD plastic is not very flexible and can break very easy. Therefore, please be gentle on each of the following steps too.

2. Continue the same step on the powered trucks too. Take care of the position of the traction tire (!)

3. Install the truck gear box to the powered trucks. ATTENTION !!! Once the gear boxes are in place, it’s not possible to remove it later since the 3D printed part may break when you try to disassemble the truck.

To get both parts together, press them together vertically but be sure that you press only to the flat bottom of the truck and the top head of the gear box to avoid braking the truck. You’ll need some pressure until the parts will click together. In case of broken truck parts, I’ll offer spare parts at Shapeways.

4. Start insert the pickup wipers. Look at the photo below to see the in which kind the wipers are pushed into the slots. There’s a small recess inside the slot which will hold the wipers in place. Bend the ends parallel to the frame and cut off approx 5.5mm from each end.

5. Use the truck pins from below the main frame part to mount the unpowered trucks to the truck bridge. Test fit them first, maybe you’ve to ream the holes a little bit. The truck should swivel free, while the truck pin has to fit strong.

6. The check the alignment of the wipers and contacts as well as the pressure of the wipers.

7. Next install the powered truck by just inserting the truck from the under side, place the worm gear on top and clip the retaining clamp in place. Again – check for free swivel and good contact to the wipers.

8. Solder thin wires to the wipers behind the holders, leading to the center of the loco. Ignore the solder points on the left side, done by mistake. Continue with the second truck assembly.

9. Take the motor with the drive shaft and thread the drive shaft between the main frame and the truck bolster.

10. place the motor to the bracket and push it down and to the end beam side as far as possible.

11. Thread the wires through the cut out beside the universal joint and connect the drive shaft.

12. Hold the truck assembly in place and check the holes for the truck pin. Line everything up by gentle pushing the motor more to the center of the frame. The universal and drive shaft have some play, so try to find the middle and install the truck pin.

13. Go ahead with the second truck assembly. Wire everything up and you’re ready for a test run.

I mounted the superstructure by dry fitting to get a feeling of the whole model so far.

So let’s have a look how this engine is running on rails

Before I’ll continue with the superstructure, I’ve to wait for some replacement parts, since some of the pre-production-model are not well-fitting. Once I’ve the spare parts here, I’ll finish the instructions too.

Stay tuned and feel free to contact me in case of any issues.
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